How to properly stake a tree

How to properly stake a tree

Good work!!

Staking your tree is a good way to balance it after planting. Most of the time, however, it's not necessary for healthy trees. Staking really only needs to be used when the root ball of the tree being planted is too small to be able to support the top growth. If you plant a tree that you carried by yourself, then odds are high that you do not need to stake it.  Too many gardeners stake a tree that does not need staked, and it can actually cause more bad than good.

Staking trees improperly can cause quite a few problems for the tree in the future. When new trees are staked and unable to sway with the wind, it results in a weaker, skinnier trunk. A staked tree will generally grow taller with a more slender trunk and this can make them more susceptible to breakage and damage when they are finally exposed to the full force of the wind. 

The proper use of staking is to keep the tree from moving too much while the roots are being established. The ropes that go around the tree are not supposed to completely immobilize the tree. That just prevents the tree from reacting to the environment. And even at that, this is supposed to be a temporary situation, a year at most. The stakes should come out after the tree is well established. 

If you are not sure whether you need to stake your tree or not, take a look at the size of the root ball compared to the canopy. The root ball should be 1/3 or greater the size of the canopy. If it's smaller than that you may want to stake it. If not, then it will be fine as is.

Thought I'd post some pictures i took of incorrectly staked trees. If your staked tree looks like these, you're doing it wrong.

Bare metal wire directly on the bark? You're doing it wrong.

What happens if you leave it staked too long? This.

This tie is doing absolutely nothing for the trees stability. It's also wearing the bark off the trunk.

I moved these posts away from the tree and the bark was completely scratched off. Not good.

Fall Pruning

It's finally starting to get cold! I don't know about you but I'm under a blanket as I'm writing this. That means that were getting close to Autumn, and that means it's almost time to bust out those shears, clippers, and trimmers.

You can trim anytime you want, but the best times to trim would be in the spring and the fall. The reason for this is that without leaves covering your trees and shrubs, you can deal directly with branches and limbs. This makes it easier to keep everything nice and tidy. Also it gives you the power to basically tell the tree where you want it to grow out and where you want it to let new growth in. Decorative trimming is not hard to do and just takes a little perspective and imagination. If you're looking for a cheap way to make your yard look awesome, trimming up shrubs like arborvitaes, junpiers, boxwoods and birdsnest spruces may be the best option.

How much did this cost? Probably a day of shaping. Worth it.

With the leaves being off the tree, it may also be easier for you to find any diseased or infected limbs and remove them. This works great with many different tree diseases because there are several diseases that reinfect the new leaves the next year. We don't want that. Not after all the work we've done to keep the diseases at bay. Look for discolored or spotted branches and remove them promptly. This may help get rid of an infection the next year or at least give the tree a chance to fight it off.

Now would also be a good time to increase the structural integrity of your trees. Some tips:

•  when you're trimming branches off not to trim them flush with the trunk. You want to leave about an inch of the only branch there. 
• if you want to stake a tree, the fall is the best time to do it because you can get further into the tree, making sure not to break any surrounding branches with the cables
• trimming off braches that grew irregularly, causing the tree to tip or bend can be trimmed off at "v crotches" along the main trunk. 

photos from nexus backgrounds

Tar Spot

Tar Spot

What is it?

Tar Spot is a fungal infection that affects Maple trees. It's found to not cause any real damage to the tree, other than making it an eye-sore.

What does it do?

This fungus, like many others, overwinters on leaves from the previous year. The dead leaves on the ground release spores in the spring of the next year. These spores reinfect the maple tree or other maples nearby.

Do you have it?

This one's pretty easy to diagnose. Look at the leaves from your maple. Do they look like someone splashed tar on them? Like the pictures above? If so, you have tar spot.

How to manage it:

Since tar spot is not a damaging fungus, most cases are just ignored as they will nomally subside on their own. If it is something you cannot stand to look at, then you can call your local tree service company to see how much a fungicidal treatment would cost. The fungicides are the only thing proven to take care of tar spot. But make sure you call in the early spring because this is when the fungicides will be most effective.

Rhizosphaera Needlecast

Rhizosphaera Needlecast

What is it?

Rhizosphaera Needlecast, or Rhizosphaera kalkhoffii, is a fungus that affects spruce trees, most commonly Colorado blue spruce. It usually doesn't kill tree, however it does make them look sick. This is particularly devastating to tree nurseries or Christmas tree farms.

What does it do?

A spruce tree that has no issues will normally keep its needles for around 6 years. When one becomes infected with Rhizosphaera Needlecast, however, it may only hold the infected needles for one year. As with other diseases of conifers, the fungus starts at the bottom of the tree and works its way up. The reason this happens is because the ground under the tree is more susceptible to growing and sheltering diseases than the tree itself. 

It starts off by infecting the new needles in May or June, however it usually will not be noticeable until spring the following year. This is when the needles on the lower branches get a somewhat purplish hue to them (see above picture), then die off and start dropping. The spring rain then splashes the infection onto healthy needles, which restarts the cycle. This can sometimes kill the lower branches of the tree.

Do you have it?

Your first hint at a Rhizosphaera Needlecast infection will be when you see needles that appear to be purple when the sun hits them. The best way to find out for sure if your trees have it is to look at the infected needles under a magnifying glass. If they have hairy looking black spots on them, then there's a pretty good chance you found your disease. These black spots are actually the breeding grounds of the fungus, waiting for the rain to take them somewhere else on the tree. Here's what it will look like:

Photo credit: ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/3000/3059.html

How to manage it:

As always, the best form of control is to know the disease before you buy a tree that might have it. If it's already in your yard, you're going to have to do a little more than that.

• If you have several spruce in your yard and only one of them is infected, make sure that you trim that tree last. The disease can be transmitted to the healthy trees just from the clippers. If you must trim your infected tree, be sure to trim that one last. Afterwards, sterilize your tools in a bucket of denatured alcohol for about 5 minutes.
• Try to keep the tree as healthy as possible. This includes vertical mulching, irrigation and aeration.
• Chemical: Since  Rhizosphaera Needlecast is a fungus, an applied fungicide could do wonders for your tree. Brands such as Daconil 2787 and Bravo might just do the trick for you. If you are goping to do it yourself, make sure to read all of the warnings and instructions. 
• Or you could always call your local tree care specialists.

Fire Blight

Fire Blight

Signs of Fire Blight on a Pear tree.

What is it?

Fire Blight is a disease that usually attacks Apples and Pears. It's caused by a bacteria that survives the winters in branch and trunk cankers(1). Once springtime rolls around, the bacteria begins multiplying once the temperature is above 65 degrees.

Infected trunk of an Apple tree

Do you have it?

You can sometimes see the white, liquid bacteria oozing out of cankers on the tree. It is called Fire Blight because of the symptoms it causes. It will look like the leaves, flowers, and small twigs have been scorched away. You'll usually notice the symptoms rather early in the year.

What does it do?

The infection starts in tip shoot tips and moves downward all the way to the trunk. The leaves will start turning brown or black, depending on the type of tree it is. (apples and crab apples usually turn brown, pear trees look black.) The disease will also infect fruit. This next picture is an apple infected with fire blight.

That's bacteria seeping out of it... gross.

The areas most commonly affected are the open flowers in the spring. It sometimes stays local to a certain part of the tree, but sometimes will spread to other areas. It can kill susceptible trees and even if it doesn't kill it, it can severely disfigure it. Once the tree has fire blight, it stays forever.

How to manage it:

Fire Blight can be avoided by planting certain types of trees that aren't affected by it. For example, if you want to plant a pear tree, you would want to avoid Asian and Red pears as they are the most susceptible.

If you've already got the trees then there are some tips to preventing the infection from spreading.

• Do not use excess nitrogen fertilization
• Do not prune if you can help it
• The tree should not be irrigated during the bloom cycle
• If you see an area that is showing symptoms of blight, remove and destroy it immediately
• With no cure known yet, the recommended spray to help would be a Copper blossom spray. It stops new infections, but it's detrimental that you cut the old infections out as best as you can.
• These sprays should be applied the entire time the tree is in the blossom stage, and should be applied when the temperature is above 60 degrees. Do this every 4 to 5 days until the bloom is over. This could mean as many as 12 treatments in one year.
• When trimming out infected areas, make SURE you clean your clippers after every snip. A bucket with 10% bleach in it will be fine.
• The best times to trim is in the summer and winter. During these seasons the infection has stopped reproducing and is dormant, thus making it easier to find the infection and destroy it.

(1) A canker on a tree is a small or large portion of dead bark that was killed during the previous years' infection.